Belinda Carli, Director of Institute of Personal Care Science
1 - How to keep up with the latest industry trends and innovations?
The best way is to keep an eye on finished product launches, above all, keep in touch with suppliers of raw materials and their launches. This can be done easily by attending exhibitions like in-cosmetics where one can see innovations; meet hundreds of suppliers and find out their latest launches to the industry; it is also possible discuss new formulating techniques with existing materials to create new sensorial results and more. There is also the Mintel presentations at these events in which one talks about trends and predictions in the market. It is possible to follow how trends evolve and link them with the raw materials being launched, above all you can think of creative new product ideas and access the materials needed to create them! It’s the very exciting part of this industry and what a formulator should be doing to keep modern and current with his formulations.
2 - As you study present main an interesting innovations or worth actives from around the world for in-cosmetics, can you tell us, if you already selected some products that industry will see at in-cosmetics Latin America?
These are my top picks for the coming show so far:
Apolluskin by Silab
Blumilight biofunctional by Ashland
Dub 810C by Stearinerie Dubois (distributed by Focus Quimica
Neodermyl by Givaudan
Ridulisse C Bio by Silab
3 - What have you seen lately in terms of delivery systems?
There are a lot of nano-actives available in Brasil from what I saw last year. Last year I saw amazing active offerings by local Brasilian companies NanoVetores and Inventiva, these companies utilise lipophilic nanoparticles, liposomes, nanoemulsion droplets and micro-emulsions in oily phase to enable the ‘packaging’ and enhanced delivery of a variety of active ingredients. These actives included extracts, proteins and vitamins specially packaged in a nano-material form to not only stabilise the inner material, but also ensure it stays active in finished products and has enhanced delivery for consumers wanting advanced efficacy from their products.
4 - As this year the market spoke a lot about men´s market, in terms of skincare, do men have the same available diversity of actives, delivery systems or even special cosmeceutics as women have? Can you mention some?
Men need their products formulated differently to women – their marketing message needs to be kept simple and straight to the point and the products need to feel light and be absorbed easily. There is definitely not as many actives targeted for men; in fact, there are only a few, and they generally focus on mattifying the skin, making the skin look more energised and controlling sebum. While they could use the same anti-ageing materials that women use, the marketing story needs to be tailored to suit the male consumer and address their specific skin needs in the formulation and story.
5 - Brazilian Chemyunion will present at in-cosmetics its active Biolumita, a bleaching and a skin color standardizing extracted from Chinese ginger rhizome. Do you think companies have from now on only these natural, organics or vegans path?
I don´t believe so. Companies are still launching materials based on their performance to suit their philosophies. So some companies favour nano-materials; some favour peptides; some favour activity whether it be naturally or synthetically sourced and some specialise in bringing out natural actives with performance characteristics that rival synthetic materials. Natural actives are marketed on their being natural; we do not see natural actives created to replace synthetic versions like we do with functional materials. Actives are either naturally sourced; semi-natural with a synthetic component or synthetically sourced – but selection is based on the company philosophy and performance rather than trying to recreate natural, which we instead see with functional materials.
6 - Considering at in-cosmetics there will be a Formulation lab and that safety maybe goes alongside with skincare, how does the laboratories can establish correct calculations and evaluations to provide market for instance, safety and efficacious on cosmeceutics?
The materials presented have proven efficacy and safety when used as suitable for personal care products. For example, water is lethal if you inhale it, so as long as a material is used in the correct way in a cosmetic, it poses no major safety concern – but it must be used correctly and in the lab we only allow qualified chemists.
7 - On the website of the Institute of Personal Care Science that you manage, there are courses, including formulations on sun protection. What would be these essential on therapeutic goods and regulatory checks that should be conducted early in the development phase?
It takes a whole unit to teach on regulatory checks –this can’t be explained in a few words I’m afraid - , except to say they must be done at the start of development otherwise the rest of the formulation/development phase could be a waste of time if not carried out prior to any lab work.