September 11 2020 Professionals

Vanessa Machado, Personal Care Manager O Boticário: “Usually, the difficulties are more in terms of certified raw materials, which leads us to the imports.”

1 - How O Boticário made possible an entirely organic and vegan line in the midst of a production line of all categories and a pandemic, where suppliers are also experiencing great difficulties in terms of raw materials, closing of facilities, staff, among others?

With the pandemic, we redesigned production and launches to meet what the moment was asking for, both from the point of view of products and communication.
The entire structure of the company was redesigned to make the operation feasible within the new market scenarios and consumer needs, including adjustments in view of the availability of suppliers and inputs, such as packaging and raw materials. And, understanding the growing consumer demand and demand for organic products, we decided that it would be time to launch it, despite the many challenges of the current scenario.
Yes, our factory, in São José dos Pinhais, has undergone some changes. As directed by the certifier, organic raw materials must be kept in a separate place from the others. In addition, their weighing is done in an exclusive environment. In the manufacturing area, the cleaning of reactors and utensils needs to be specific to this type of product, as approved by the Cosmos referential. Only certain specific cleaning products are approved for use by the certifier, in the case of some sanitizers and detergents. All of these measures needed to be implemented so that there is no cross contamination. We can use the same production line, but before and after the manufacture of an organic certified item, the line must go through the cleaning process with the detergent and sanitizer allowed by the certification.

2 - When is this project from? Why was it decided that the launch would be at this time?

The project started in 2018 and went through several stages, including the certification by Ecocert, which was very rigorous and required the adaptation of the factory in São José dos Pinhais, in addition to the entire production chain, such as the import of inputs and the preparation of the product and all its features.
Consumers are increasingly aware and looking for products that can make a difference to the environment. Thus, we invested in the largest reverse logistics program in packaging collection points, which is Boti Recicla, increasingly aligned of vegan products. We won the Beauty Without Bunnies seal from the People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) certifier, as the Boticario Group has not performed animal testing for more than 20 years. So, it made sense to take this step further in the history of the brand in the face of our values and performance pillars.

3 – O Boticário was already transforming some of its lines into vegan and now comes this certified line . Does the idea have to do with the new demands of consumers, turning all body lines into vegan and certified?

We are aware that the consumer is increasingly demanding, especially when it comes to sustainability and social responsibility.
Currently, the brand has vegan items in all its categories. This movement began in September 2019, with its first entirely vegan personal care line, Nativa SPA Quinoa. Our e-commerce has a sub-category “Vegan” where the consumer finds all products.

This year, we received the Ecocert seal, certifying the production of organic cosmetics by the brand. And, in October, we will launch the Nativa SPA Orgânico line, the first in a large cosmetics industry, in which the line's products will have natural, organic, vegan ingredients and free from animal testing. We know it is a small step, but very important for the entire production chain and beauty market. We definitely want to evolve with each release.

4 – Are there studies to also make makeup lines vegan and certified?

We already have some vegan items in our makeup category in the Intense and Make B lines. We are working and looking for solutions with the research and development area to increase the number of products with these characteristics in the portfolio, without losing performance, in all categories., not just makeup. We want to evolve with each launch and, therefore, we have many strategies and steps outlined to increase this percentage considerably.


5 – There are many women who have sensitive skin and are looking for both makeup and face products, such as cleansers, tonics and more natural, possibly organic moisturizers. What is the possibility of attend these demands?

Many consumers seek these differentials in cosmetics. This was one of the reasons why in 2019 we started to identify all vegan products, not only in the physical store, but also in e-commerce.
We then started to start a movement, aimed mainly at a consumer who already consumes organic products, but also at one who does not yet know such products. Nothing prevents, however, that in the future, the organic line may include other categories of the brand.   

 6 - New technologies and actives for facial products allow a more effective effect. By making them organic, is it possible for some products to lose effectiveness?

Our goal is to never lose the effectiveness of products. Substituting the source for obtaining raw materials from animal to vegetable, mineral or synthetic does not affect the performance of the products in terms of stability, safety or effectiveness. They remain being the same molecules, only the sources of obtaining are different. To guarantee the effectiveness of the Nativa SPA Organic line, we performed performance tests until we reached the ideal result. To give you an idea, there were 12 versions of the shampoo and 10 of the lotion.

7 - What kind of products did Mrs. would you say that at the moment they are more difficult to become organic? Or vegan?

Since the source of obtaining vegetable, mineral or synthetic raw materials does not affect the performance of the products in any way, what changes only is the source of obtaining them, such as the use of vegetable-only glycerol in our products, we are always preparing and studying what we managed to make organic or vegan.

Usually, the difficulties are much more in terms of raw materials, because some Brazilian producers are unable to meet our demand, which leads us to import these inputs. For the Nativa SPA Orgânico line, for example, local producers could not meet some specific requirements, so we had to look for suppliers outside Brazil.

8 – Does the organic products, for example, could deliver their assets through nanotechnology and thus eventually be more effective??

By the Ecocert certifier, for the production of organic products, there is no organic cosmetic certification for formulas with nanotechnology, since to qualify in nano, the raw materials go through processes that are not allowed by the certifier that prioritizes ingredients in natura, without modifications.

9 – Are there specific technologies for the conservation / durability of organic products? Which ones, and could they change the condition of organic cosmetic?

Our proposal has always been to deliver the product without losing its effectiveness and this involves conservation. The Nativa SPA Orgânico line is valid for 24 months, due to the structure of the formulas as a whole - more natural and organic ingredients and less chemical ingredients, which impacts on a shorter shelf life than a conventional product.

10 – Could we say, making an analogy with the homemade fruit and vegetable masks that used to be made for the face, that organic cosmetics are those products that were made at home, but industrialized?

The new line of Nativa SPA Orgânico has natural ingredients such as masks, however, what makes an organic cosmetic is the standard formulas, developed with natural and vegetable ingredients, which go through a process very well controlled by traceability certifying bodies - from way of planting, harvesting, among other processes, even the way the product reaches the consumer. Recalling that the Nativa SPA Organic line contains ingredients that are biomimetic, that is, compounds similar to those that we naturally have in our body, which leads to a greater affinity with our body, stimulating, for example, the natural hydration of the skin and hair.

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